Walking with ancestors

How pilgrimage becomes an act of endurance and communal memory for the Nazareth Baptist Church in South Africa.

Pilgrimage is one of the oldest expressions of faith across cultures. A ritual of movement that transforms landscapes into sacred space and hardship into spiritual offering. For the Nazareth Baptist Church, also known as the Shembe Church, the annual journey to Khenana Mountain is both a test of endurance and a celebration of communal identity.

This year’s pilgrimage began at midnight on 5 January 2025, with approximately 3,000 members from the Buhleni faction setting off despite heavy rains and muddy terrain. The journey spans about 80 kilometers, culminating at the sacred Khenana Mountain, a site of profound religious significance for the Shembe faithful.​

As noted in this Isolezwe article by Nhlakanipho Mnqayi, for many pilgrims, the physical challenges of the journey are outweighed by its spiritual rewards. “You don’t feel tired because you are walking with God,” pilgrim Sizwe Ngidi told Mnqayi. “Even if you are tired, you are full of love because inside you are walking with your family who are no longer with you, who are the ones who give you strength.”

Another pilgrim, undertaking the trek for the first time, describes the experience as transformative. Despite the slippery paths and the need to assist elderly companions, he expresses joy of being part of the church community. “These three days we walk on the ground, you forget about everything else in the world. The tiredness is only felt when we’ve returned home,” he told Isolezwe, a Zulu tabloid news publication.

Founded in 1910 by prophet Isaiah Shembe, The Nazareth Baptist Church blends Christian teachings with Zulu customs, creating a unique spiritual tradition that honours both the Bible and ancestral heritage. ​Shembe’s teachings emphasise purity, community, and a deep connection to the land and ancestors. Over time, the church has grown into one of South Africa’s largest African-initiated churches, with a significant following in KwaZulu-Natal and beyond. ​

Despite internal divisions and leadership disputes that have led to multiple factions, the church’s core practices continue to unite its members in shared faith and purpose.

The pilgrimage to Khenana Mountain also serves as a platform for promoting unity and mutual respect among different different groups in society. Thokozani Mncwabe, spokesperson for the Buhleni faction, highlighted the inclusive nature of the event, noting the participation of individuals from various backgrounds, including Prince Ishwar Ramlutchman Mabheka Zulu, of Indian descent. “He even composed a hymn for the Nazarenes that says: All nations are invited to rise, let us accept it with open hearts,” Mncwabe shared.

Such moments underscore the church’s commitment to fostering a sense of belonging that transcends cultural and ethnic boundaries, reflecting a broader vision of spiritual inclusivity.​

As the pilgrims reach the summit of Khenana Mountain, their journey embodies more than physical perseverance. It represents a collective affirmation of faith, resilience, and cultural identity. In the face of modern challenges and societal changes, the Shembe pilgrimage stands as a testament to the enduring power of tradition and the human spirit’s capacity for devotion and unity.​

ZN

The original article by Nhlakanipho Mnqayi was published in Zulu on 11 January 2025 under the title ‘Uhambo lwaKwashembe lufaniswa nesibusiso’.

It is available here.

Isolezwe is a Zulu-language daily newspaper in South Africa that reports on news, culture, and current affairs, with a strong emphasis on the perspectives and experiences of Zulu-speaking communities. It is widely read for its accessible language and close connection to local cultural and spiritual life.

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